I was sitting at a noisy bar on a beautiful fall afternoon, watching the bartender work, and she was indeed working. She pulled down on the tap, then pushed back, pulled down and pushed up, in rhythmic repetition like a farmhand at a well.
This was beer the really old-fashioned way... unpasteurized and unfiltered. And it was served by muscle power pumping the ale up from its cask into the mug.
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